Coming Home to Terrebonne

River House, a powerfully written memoir by Sarahlee Lawrence.  Cover Photo: Tin House Books.

River House, a powerfully written memoir by Sarahlee Lawrence. Cover Photo: Tin House Books.

River House begins in the jungles of Peru as the author, Sarahlee Lawrence, prepares for a perilous white water run down the Tambopata River. In fact, the first few pages of her memoir are filled with descriptions of her 14-foot cataraft plunging down through the swollen rapids of this wild, tempestuous river. But don’t let that fool you . . .this book is actually a story about coming home. And home for the author is a small town called Terrebonne in the high desert of Oregon.

Sarahlee Lawrence was born and raised on her parent’s 80-acre ranch outside of Terrebonne. Like so many small town kids, once she graduated from high school, she couldn’t wait to get out and experience life.

By the age of 21, she had rafted some of the most dangerous rivers in the world as a guide and river advocate. But rafting down the Tambopata, she suddenly felt an inexplicable and overwhelming desire to return to the wide open spaces and arid landscape of her childhood. She wanted to go home, to find and build her own place in the world.

That “place” turned out to be a log home, crafted by hand, on her parent’s ranch. With the help of her father, she spent one entire winter–often in freezing temperatures–laying a foundation, stripping and notching logs, raising a roof, and bull-dozing a driveway. Check out these photos of the construction work on her website.

But her relationship with her father during this father-daughter project was testy, often adversarial. As she worked hard to stake her own claim in the high desert, she could feel her father pulling away from both the land and his life on the family ranch. A land-locked Californian, he wanted nothing more than to return to the ocean and surf the waves . . . a life he had loved and left years before.

River House is a powerfully written memoir about home, family, and the desire to find one’s own place in the world. But it’s also a tribute to the land and shines a spotlight on a region of the Pacific NW–Central Oregon’s High Desert–that most people don’t know much about. All in all, it’s a remarkable read!

Sarahlee Lawrence still lives on the family ranch, where she owns and operates an organic vegetable farm called Rainshadow Organics.

**Special Note: For news, reviews, and profiles of other Pacific NW authors, please check out my column on the Portland Examiner.

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Virgil Earp (1843-1905)

Virgil W. Earp headstone.  River View Cemetery.  Portland, OR.  Photo: KGilb.

Virgil W. Earp headstone. River View Cemetery. Portland, OR. Photo: KGilb.

River View is a heavily wooded cemetery situated on a hillside overlooking the Willamette River in Portland, OR. Established in 1882, it is the final resting place for many of the region’s original movers and shakers: Henry Weinhard (owner of the Weinhard Brewery), Simon Benson (timber baron), Henry Lewis Pittock (prominent newspaper editor), George Abernethy (provisional governor), and many others.

But who is the most asked about person buried at River View Cemetery? Virgil W. Earp, legendary lawman of the “Old West” and Tombstone City Marshall at the time of the now famous Gunfight at the OK Corral.

Virgil Earp had a long and storied career as a peace officer. At the time of his death, he was still working in law enforcement. (deputy sheriff, Esmeralda County, NV) He died of pneumonia on October 19, 1905, at the age of 62.

Earp had only one child, a daughter by the name of Nellie Jane Bohn. When notified of his passing, she asked that his remains be transported north to Portland, OR, where he was finally laid to rest in Section 15 of River View Cemetery.

His headstone is a gray granite marker set low to the ground. A variegated English holly tree stands nearby. The inscription reads simply, “In loving memory of my husband, Virgil W. Earp 1843-1905. God will take care of me.”

River View Cemetery is located at 0300 SW Taylors Ferry Road in Portland, OR. For a map and detailed directions on how to get there, please check the RVC website.

The cemetery grounds are open daily from 8am to dusk. The office is open 8am to 5pm on weekdays, 9am to 5pm on Saturdays, and closed on Sundays. Staff members are very friendly and more than happy to tell you how to find the gravesite.

**Special Note: For the remarkable story of “How the Civil War Brought Wyatt Earp’s Brother to Portland, OR”, please check the Oregon Magazine website.

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Woodland Tulip Festival II

Special display garden at the 2010 Woodland Tulip Festival.  Holland America Bulb Farms.  Photo: KGilb.

Special display garden at the 2010 Woodland Tulip Festival. Holland America Bulb Farms. Photo: KGilb.

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Woodland Tulip Festival

Acres and acres of tulips at the Holland America Bulb Farm in Woodland, WA.  Photo: KGilb.

Acres and acres of tulips at the Holland America Bulb Farm in Woodland, WA. Photo: KGilb.

It’s official! March 2011 was one of the coolest–and wettest–on record here in the Pacific NW. But while the chilly weather may have delayed things a week or two, it couldn’t do away with Spring altogether. Bright yellow daffodils have finally started popping up everywhere, which usually means that Tulip Time is right around the corner. What better way to celebrate than a visit to the Woodland Tulip Festival?

The 9th Annual Woodland Tulip Festival takes place at the Holland America Bulb Farm and runs the entire month of April. Even before reaching the farm, visitors are treated to a wash of bright color in the normally verdant landscape. Acres and acres of tulips in brilliant shades of pink, purple, scarlet, yellow, and crimson red. 160 varieties in all! And that’s just the beginning.

Once at the farm, you can stroll through a show field for an “up close and personal” look at these beautiful blooms . . . take a tractor-train ride around the tulip fields . . . and visit a specially designed display garden near the house to pick up some landscaping ideas.

Want some tulip bulbs or fresh-cut flowers to take home with you? Be sure to visit the gift shop, which is also home to the annual art show sponsored by the festival. Tucked away among the spring flower pots, greeting cards, and specialty gift items, shoppers will find some beautiful artwork for sale. All based around a central theme of, what else, Spring Flowers!

The Woodland Tulip Festival is open daily from 9am to 6pm, with special events scheduled on the following dates: April 9-10, 16-17, and 23-24. On these particular weekends, visitors can also browse through a local artisan’s market and chow down on lunch from a variety of food vendors while listening to some live music. Everything from toe-tapping country/ western and golden oldies to a concert pianist and a Celtic harp. Entertainers include Ted Vigil, Jim Fischer, Carrie Cunningham & The Six Shooters, Kit Stowell, Bob Nehls, Killofin, and The Catillacs.

And for the kids? Weekend activities include face painting, a bounce house, arts/crafts, and did I mention that tractor-train ride around the tulip fields?

The Woodland Tulip Festival is an event tailor-made for the entire family, from grandparents to toddlers. It’s also free to the public, except for a $3 parking fee on the weekends.

Holland America Bulb Farms is located at 1066 South Pekin Road, Woodland, WA. They’re easy to find. Take Exit 21 off I-5 and then just follow the signs. Or for those who prefer detailed directions and a map, please check out the Holland American website or call 360-225-4512.

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The Harbor Life at Depoe Bay

Entrance to the harbor at Depoe Bay, OR.  Photo: KGilb.

Entrance to the harbor at Depoe Bay, OR. Photo: KGilb.

Depoe Bay is a cozy community of about 1300 people located along the central coast of Oregon. Its biggest claim to fame? Depoe Bay has the smallest navigable harbor in the world! Dimensions: 750 feet long, 390 feet wide, and 8 feet deep at mean low tide. Entrance to this unique natural harbor is made by shooting through a treacherously narrow channel that’s only about 50 feet wide and bounded on each side by basalt rock walls.

“Shooting the hole” is not for inexperienced navigators nor for the faint-of-heart, even on a relatively calm day. Watch this video and we think you’ll agree!

Depoe Bay is also known as the “Whale Watching Capital of Oregon.” Hundreds of whale-watchers gather here each year to search for telltale spouts out on the ocean as 200-300 gray whales make their way from Alaska all the way down to Mexico and back again. There’s also a resident pod of gray whales which takes up residence here from March through December. The kelp beds out in the bay provide a rich harvest of the mysid shrimp that whales love to eat.

A huge seawall runs the entire length of the downtown area. The perfect vantage point to watch for the flip of a fan tail as a whale dives deep. Not content to watch from shore? Whale watching trips aboard cruisers or speedy Zodiac boats leave the harbor almost every hour.

The seawall is also the perfect place to get up close and personal with a spouting horn: Geysers of salt water that shoot up into the air as high as 50-60 feet. Standing close to one is guaranteed to leave you breathless!

Want to try your hand at a little fishing? Depending on the season, charter boats loaded with sport fishermen leave harbor at dawn throughout the year in search of ling cod, Chinook and Coho salmon, halibut, albacore tuna, Dungeness crab, and about 20 different varieties of rockfish.

And when you get tired of the ocean–if you get tired of the ocean–don’t forget to check out the rest of Depoe Bay! This friendly little coastal town also has an eclectic mix of gift shops, boutiques, art galleries, coffee shops, and restaurants (many with fresh seafood on the menu). Linger a little longer and enjoy the harbor life!

Depoe Bay is located on Highway 101 about 100 miles S/SW of Portland OR. It lies almost equidistant between the towns of Newport and Lincoln City OR. For a map of the area, please check out the nwcoast.com website.

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The First Japanese in the Pacific NW

Stone monument commemorating the arrival of the first Japanese in the Pacific NW.  Photo: KGilb.

Stone monument commemorating the arrival of the first Japanese in the Pacific NW. Photo: KGilb.

In October 1832, a fully loaded cargo ship with a crew of 14 set sail for Edo, Japan. (present day Tokyo) Shortly after leaving port, it was caught in a horrific storm. Battered by high winds and surging waves, the ship was driven far from its course and ended up drifting aimlessly in an open sea without a rudder.

The ship, called the Hojun Maru, drifted on the Kuroshio Current for 14 months! With a cargo hold full of rice and water barrels replenished by subsequent storms, these castaways were better provisioned than most. Unfortunately, by the time they reached land, illness (scurvy, perhaps?) had carried off all but three of the original crew members.

The Hojun Maru finally ran aground in the winter of 1834 near Cape Flattery, at the northwest tip of what is now Washington State. The only survivors of that ill-fated voyage were Iwakichi (age 28), Kyukichi (age 15), and Otokichi (age 14).

After washing ashore, the three “Kichi’s” were plucked from the beach by Makah hunters and then lived for a time among the native tribes who inhabited that region. A few months later, they were picked up by a Hudson’s Bay Company brig called the Llama and taken to Fort Vancouver where they lived until November 15, 1834.

Chief Factor John McLoughlin then arranged for them to be transported to England for eventual repatriation back to Japan. How sad to learn that, after all their tribulations, none of the three ever made it all the way back home. For the complete story of the Hojun Maru survivors, please check out this article posted on the History Link website.

To honor these three mariners and “commemorate the arrival of the first Japanese on the North American continent,” a stone monument was erected in August 1989. The monument is located at the Fort Vancouver National Historic Site. Visitors will find it tucked away underneath a pine tree just a few feet west of the Visitors Center. For directions and a map, please check the Fort Van website.

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New Beginnings by Larry Anderson

New Beginnings, a bronze sculpture by Larry Anderson.  Photo: KGilb

New Beginnings, a bronze sculpture by Larry Anderson. Photo: KGilb

We ran into this dapper young fellow standing in front of Tacoma’s historic Union Station building. With a carpetbag sitting on the sidewalk beside him, we got the definite impression that he’d just stepped off the train and was looking for adventure! An opportunity to be part of something “big” up here in the Pacific NW!

The 4-foot bronze statue, entitled “New Beginnings,” was erected in 1984 as part of the City of Tacoma’s centennial celebration. A nearby plaque reads: “The statue enbodies the courage and idealism of the early men and women who arrived by rail, sea, and wagon to first explore and later build the city’s first businesses and industries.”

“New Beginnings” was created by famed local artist, Larry Anderson. In the past 30+ years, he has completed some 65 life-sized bronze statues. Though many can be found in the greater Seattle-Tacoma area, others include “The Three Lincolns” in Springfield IL, “Continuum” at Purdue’s School of Veterinary Medicine in West Lafayette IN, and “The Caring Call” on the WSU-Pullman campus.

Anderson has a passion for detail and historical accuracy that is evident in his work. His sculptures are enfused with energy, as if each is a scene frozen in time. And his choice of subject–ordinary citizens caught in memorable moments–is reminiscent of a Norman Rockwell painting.

“New Beginnings” is located on the sidewalk just outside the old Union Station Building. Address: 1715 Pacific Avenue in downtown Tacoma, WA. For a map and directions, please check out Tacoma’s Union Station Courthouse website.

**Check back soon for more articles on Life in the Pacific NW: artists, authors, restaurants, wineries, festivals and events, historic sites, and the Great Outdoors!

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Paradise by Laurie Allyn

Recorded in October 1957, but never released until August 2004.  Cover Photo: Dave Pell.

Recorded in October 1957, but never released until August 2004. Cover Photo: Dave Pell.

I was driving through Portland recently listening to KMHD-FM (89.1) when a song came on the radio. Wow, I thought, this is pretty good. I reached down and turned up the volume, but for the life of me, couldn’t identify the female vocalist. Who was she? Fortunately, I got my answer at song’s end. Her name is Laurie Allyn.

Laurie Allyn, also known as Didi Pierce, sang ballads and torch songs in Chicago jazz clubs during the mid-1950’s. She also performed at the Crystal Palace in St. Louis, MO. Her voice has a clear, sweet tone that hits the high notes spot-on. She was “discovered” in 1957 by Red Clyde, a jazz producer, who whisked her away to a recording studio at Mode Records in California.

For two weeks, Laurie worked hard recording a dozen tracks that included such jazz classics as The More I See You, So In Love, You Go To My Head, and a haunting rendition of Take Me In Your Arms.

In addition to a full orchestra of brass and strings, Laurie was backed by some of the most talented individuals in the recording industry at that time: Grammy-award-winning record producer and recording engineer, Bones Howe. Famed pianist, composer, arranger, and music producer, Marty Paich. And well-known jazz trumpet soloist, Don Fagerquist.

The resulting collection of blues ballads and up-tempo jazz is remarkable. And, by all accounts, Paradise by Laurie Allyn would have gone straight to the top of the charts once it was released. Unfortunately, Mode Records ceased operations one week after they finished recording and Laurie’s album never saw the light of day . . .

Until August 2004, that is. Almost 50 years later! That’s when Vsop Records–a small record label that had acquired the original recordings from Mode Records–finally released Paradise on CD.

Didi Pierce, of course, had since moved on with her life. She married, raised two daughters and, at some point, moved to Port Townsend WA. A long way from those Chicago jazz clubs. She never did record another album, but that shouldn’t stop you from enjoying this one!

Paradise by Laurie Allyn is currently available as both a CD and an MP3 download on Amazon.com. Just click on the link to sample some of what I heard on that late afternoon drive through Portland.

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Tumwater’s Hidden Gem

Fish ladder near the Middle Falls.  Tumwater Falls Park.  Photo: KGilb.

Fish ladder near the Middle Falls. Tumwater Falls Park. Photo: KGilb.

Tumwater Falls Park is a hidden gem tucked away alongside the interstate, but if you didn’t know about it, you’d never guess it was there. We certainly didn’t, and we’ve been whizzing up and down I-5 for years! But in our defense, the park isn’t readily visible from the highway.

Tumwater Falls Park is a 15 acre slice of natural beauty that borders the Deschutes River just before it plunges into Capitol Lake. With a wide variety of native trees and shrubs, this is as close to a stroll through the woods as you will find without leaving the city. Though privately owned and maintained by the Olympia Tumwater Foundation, the park is open to the public free of charge.

Walking trails run along both sides of the river as it rushes and tumbles down through a narrow gorge strewn with boulders. In addition to white rapids interspersed with dark pools of water, hikers will also find the foundation stones of an old hydroelectric power plant erected way back in the 1890’s. And fish ladders built to help spawning salmon fight their way upstream.

Pedestrian bridges span the river at each end of the trail, making a nice circuitous route back to the visitor’s center. Total walking distance: 1/2 mile. The one at the Lower Falls is actually a replica of the wooden truss bridge used by the citizens of Tumwater in the late 1800’s. Each foot bridge provides a good view of one of the three waterfalls present in the park.

Just inside the entrance is a more traditional “city park” area with manicured lawns, picnic tables, restrooms, shade trees, and a great play area for the kids. The perfect spot to take a break if you’re on a long drive from Salem to Seattle.

Tumwater Falls Park is located at 110 Deschutes Way SW in Tumwater, WA. Winter hours: 8am to dusk. For detailed directions and a map,  please check the olytumfoundation website.

Special Note: Don’t confuse this park with the city-owned and operated Tumwater Falls Historical Park which is located nearby.

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Spring Has Come to the Seymour Conservatory

January's special floral exhibit at the W. W. Seymour Conservatory in Tacoma, WA.  Photo: KGlb.

January’s special floral exhibit at the W. W. Seymour Conservatory in Tacoma, WA. Photo: KGlb.

This time of year, nearly everyone’s thoughts turn to spring. (except, of course, all those snow worshipers up on the ski slopes) Unfortunately, I think every groundhog in the Pacific NW popped their heads out of their dens yesterday morning and saw their shadows. And you know what that means. Another 6 weeks of winter!

Can’t wait 6 weeks? I’ll let you in on a little secret. Spring has already come to the W. W. Seymour Botanical Conservatory in Tacoma, WA.

The Seymour Conservatory has more than 250 individual plant species in its permanent collection. Orchids, bromeliads, ferns, figs, palms, cacti, and a lemon tree with ripened fruit the size of mangoes. But imagine our delight when we discovered that it also features special floral exhibits that change every month!

During a recent visit, we were greeted at the front entrance by a gorgeous display of spring color. A variety of azaleas mixed in with tulips, cyclamen, and miniature daffodils. Just the thing to chase away the winter blahs.

Moving slowly past the blooms, we followed the sound of trickling water until we found the koi pond located nearby. A magnet for adults as well as kids. And as we made our way deeper into the conservatory, we also discovered half a dozen sculptures tucked away among the foliage. The sculptures, created by former conservator Clarence Deming, are a mix of African, Axtec, and Maori artistic styles that blend well with the tropical and sub-tropical plants.

W. W. Seymour Conservatory in Tacoma's historic Wright Park.  Photo: KGilb.

W. W. Seymour Conservatory in Tacoma’s historic Wright Park. Photo: KGilb.

We ended our visit with a stop at the gift shop. The shop stocks a variety of glassware, pottery, potpourri, yard ornaments, and jewelry—many with a botanical theme. Tea-drinkers (like me) will also find a nice selection of teapots, teacups, and tea accessories.

The W. W. Seymour Botanical Conservatory is open Tuesday through Sunday from 10am to 4:30pm. (closed on Mondays and public holidays) Admission is free, although a $5 donation is strongly urged and greatly appreciated. For a schedule of upcoming floral exhibits and other special events, please check the conservatory’s website.

The Seymour Conservatory is located at 316 South G Street, Tacoma, WA. (in Wright Park) For a map and directions, please check the Garden Visit website. On-site parking is extremely limited, but we had no trouble finding a parking space on the street.

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