When Liquid Sunshine Turns to Snow II

Twilight scene after mid-winter snowfall.  Coeur d'Alene Park in Spokane WA.  Photo:  Randall Harris

Twilight scene after mid-winter snowfall. Coeur d’Alene Park in Spokane WA. Photo: Randall Harris

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When Liquid Sunshine Turns to Snow

Spokane, WA, after a typical mid-winter snow.  Photo:  Randall Harris.

Spokane, WA, after a typical mid-winter snow. Photo: Randall Harris.

Washington State is known far and wide as the “Land of Liquid Sunshine.” In other words, it rains a lot up here–especially during the winter months. From November through April, if you’re traveling anywhere near the Pacific Coast, you’re sure to get soaked by a downpour or two. Even as far inland as the I-5 corridor!

But Washington also gets a good amount of snow, as all those living on the eastern side of the state can attest. Snow shovels? Ice scrapers? Indispensable! Unless, of course, you plan on staying holed up inside until spring thaw.

These two photos were taken in Spokane, WA, after a typical mid-winter snowfall. Local photographer Randall Harris happened to glance out his window one afternoon just as the snow was tapering off. Grabbing his coat and camera, a Nikon D-60, out the door he went.

The images he captured that day are incredible! You can almost feel the cold nipping at your fingers and toes as twilight settles in. Thanks for sharing, Randy!

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Lewis & Clark Winter Camp II

Outside the stockade at Fort Clatsop.  Home to the Lewis & Clark expedition during the winter of 1805-06.  Photo: KGilb.

Outside the stockade at Fort Clatsop. Home to the Lewis & Clark expedition during the winter of 1805-06. Photo: KGilb.

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Lewis & Clark Winter Camp

Inside the stockade at Fort Clatsop.  Note the tiny windows on either side of the door on the left.  Photo: KGilb.

Inside the stockade at Fort Clatsop. Note the tiny windows on either side of the door on the left. Photo: KGilb.

Welcome to Fort Clatsop, home to the Lewis & Clark expedition for 3-1/2 months during the winter of 1805-06. A pretty spot when the sun is shining, but Lewis & Clark didn’t camp here when the weather was fine. They arrived in the midst of the winter rainy season. And it rains a lot in the Pacific Coast ranges–up to 70 inches per year.

By all accounts, their stay here was pretty miserable. Nearly three dozen men, a young Indian woman named Sacajawea, her French-Canadian husband, and their infant son lived inside the stockade that winter. Total area with parade ground: about 2500 square feet. Not much bigger than a modern day suburban home.

Quarters were cramped and sparsely furnished–up to 9 men per room in the enlisted men’s quarters. They were also dark (very few windows) and smoky because of the poorly ventilated firepits in each room. With supplies running low, the inhabitants had little to eat other than deer and elk meat. Head colds, flu, and fleas were a constant irritant. And to top it off, it rained all but 12 of the 106 days they spent here!

A replica of the original Fort Clatsop now stands in the clearing. Visitors can wander through each tiny room with its rustic beds, benches, and tree stump tables. Or they can follow graveled paths through the rainforest to a fresh water spring or the canoe landings on the Lewis & Clark River. Park rangers are available to answer questions and re-enactors in full costume are often on hand, as well, firing off flintlock muskets or sewing moccasins.

The Interpretive Center is a must see! A full-sized bronze statue of Lewis & Clark, sculpted by Stanley Wanlass, stands in front of a huge bay window with the forest as a backdrop. There’s also a wide range of items on display: uniform jackets, weapons, tools, furs, woven baskets, trade goods, even a dugout canoe!

Most visitors stream through here during the summer months. But the best time to visit is actually right now, when a steady stream of raindrops patters down on the little log fort or the forest is thick with fog. Only then will you get a real sense of the Lewis & Clark experience.

Fort Clatsop is located about 5.5 miles SSW of Astoria, OR. The fort and interpretive center are open every day of the year except Christmas. Entrance fees are just $3 per adult; those 15 and younger are free. For more info and detailed maps to the site, please check the Fort Clatsop National Memorial website.

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Afternoon Tea at the Grant House

Table is set for afternoon tea at the Grant House Restaurant in Vancouver, WA. Photo: KGilb.

I still remember my first afternoon tea in the Pacific NW. It was served in the Atrium at Cavanaugh’s Inn at the Park (now the Red Lion Hotel at the Park) in Spokane, WA. Naoma D. and I had our choice of Stash Teas along with a good selection of sweet treats . . but no scones, as I remember.

The best afternoon tea I’ve had to date? Definitely the Empress Hotel in Victoria, BC, but I’m always on the lookout for a new favorite. So, two weeks before Christmas, I treated myself to afternoon tea at the Grant House Restaurant in Vancouver, WA.

The main dining room at the Grant House is cozy and intimate with polished wood furniture and a matching pair of fireplaces. The wood floors are covered with oriental carpets and there’s a smattering of old-fashioned wall lamps with chimneys and glass shades spaced evenly around the room. On the afternoon we visited, it was also decorated for the holidays with candles, wreaths, and festive holly berry arrangements.

Once seated by the hostess, we didn’t have to wait long. Our waitress arrived with a pot of tea (English Breakfast, or something similar) and a good assortment of sweets, savories, and fresh fruit. Tea sandwiches included ham and Dijon mustard, cucumber, and thin slices of tomato with pesto and cheese. All very tasty, but more than one bite each would have been better.

Where the kitchen really excelled, however, was in its selection of sweets! Hazelnut bars, raspberry crumble cake, lemon tarts, cranberry/walnut cookies, and scones with clotted cream and strawberry jam. More than enough to satisfy any sweet tooth.

The Grant House serves afternoon tea every Friday from 2-4 pm. When we visited, the food was good; our waitress was friendly and helpful. And the price, at just $15 per person, was quite reasonable. But please note, reservations are strongly recommended. For more information, please call 360-906-1101 or send an email through the contact page on their website. You’re in for a real treat!

The Grant House is located at 1101 Officers Row in Vancouver, WA. (easily accessible from I-5) For directions, map, and additional photos of the restaurant, please click here.

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Good-bye to Autumn

Fall Colors. Coeur d'Alene Park in Spokane, WA. Photo: Randall Harris.

According to this year’s calendar, the “official” start of winter is December 21st. Sorry, but four days before Christmas? I don’t think so. Up here in the Pacific NW, we’re already well into the winter season by that time. For us, Thanksgiving marks the real transition between fall and winter.

By Thanksgiving weekend, there’s almost always a layer of new snow blanketing the high country. Along the Pacific Coast, the clouds are socked in low. The thick, heavy mist of autumn has shifted to rain. And out on the plains, the frost is definitely on the pumpkin. Winter isn’t just fast approaching, it’s here . . . or certainly will be in a day or two.

So before we embrace the upcoming holidays and the inevitable skiing/sledding/hockey season, we thought we’d give you one last look at Autumn 2010.

This photo was sent to me by Randall Harris who just recently rediscovered his love of photography. Pulling out his Nikon D-60, he spent some time about four weeks ago in Coeur d’Alene Park in Spokane, WA. As you can see, the sun was shining brightly that day and the leaves were still on the trees. And the results? Striking!

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Columbia Gorge Hotel II

Columbia Gorge Hotel. Hood River, OR. Photo: KGilb.

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Columbia Gorge Hotel

Wah Gwin Gwin Falls. Columbia Gorge Hotel. Photo: KGilb.

Like big beautiful houses, I love grand old hotels. Of all the ones I’ve visited over the years, each has offered a unique glimpse back to a time when grace and elegance ruled. A world where the inhabitants actually “dressed” for dinner instead of just showing up in khakis, Nikes, and knit tops.

One such window into the past is the Columbia Gorge Hotel. Perched high atop a cliff overlooking the Columbia River, the hotel’s distinctive Mediterranean-style architecture dates back to the Roaring 20’s.

During its heyday, this “oasis of opulence” out in the wilds of the Columbia Gorge attracted visitors from around the world. Everyone from U.S. Presidents and political leaders to business moguls and Hollywood filmmakers. Perhaps even that smoldering star of the Silver Screen himself . . . Rudolf Valentino! In fact, look for a photograph of the famed film star back by the baby grand piano in the Valentino Lounge.

The main entrance leads past the registration desk into a bright, airy lobby with sculpted ceilings and antique chandeliers. From there, you can proceed right into the lounge or take a short detour into Simon’s Cliff House Restaurant.

Simon’s has a low-beamed ceiling which makes for an intimate setting. But for those who prefer their meals with a view, the main dining area is flanked by two long glassed-in porches overlooking either the Gorge or the many manicured gardens surrounding the hotel.

Outside, the view from the top of the cliff is breathtaking and there are several spots that provide terrific photo ops. But visitors will also want to take a stroll though the gardens. A narrow walking path loops around the hotel–wandering past flower beds filled with native plants, up and over bridges, and along a small creek. Would you like a glimpse of the landscaping? Take this unique video tour of the grounds.

And how many hotels do you know that actually have their own waterfall? Not man-made, but a natural part of the landscape? The Wah Gwin Gwin Waterfall tumbles 208 feet from the top of the cliff down to the Columbia River below. Best view is from the stone terrace at the back of the hotel.

The Columbia Gorge Hotel is located at 4000 Westcliff Drive on the outskirts of Hood River, OR. From Portland, take I-84 and drive east about 60 miles.

Special Note: The Hotel is planning several special events during the upcoming holiday season, including afternoon tea and the kick-off to their annual Festival of Lights. 500,000 lights in all! Please check their listing of Upcoming Events for specific dates and times.

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The Magic of Beltaine

Winter Wind, a collection of traditional Christmas music by Beltaine. Cover Art: Eileen George.

I’ve seen Beltaine perform at half a dozen different events in recent years. Unfortunately, with them, my timing is never good. I always seem to arrive right at the end of their set which is very sad. Why? Because it means I only get to hear a couple of songs by this very talented group of musicians instead of a dozen or more!

Who is Beltaine? Brian Baker, John Keys, and Kris Chase are the members of this Pacific NW trio. Together, they perform a variety of Celtic and other traditional folk songs from around the world.

The music is light and lively–with bright, clean tones and toe-tapping beats that make it hard to sit still! (though they might throw in a slower, more introspective piece from time to time) It’s also 100% acoustic, not electric. No amps here to drive the sound. Their instruments include the hammered and mountain dulcimers, guitar, flute, marimbula, and penny whistle.

Beltaine currently has two CD’s out: String Fling and Winter Wind. Winter Wind, a collection of traditional holiday music, is especially appropriate this time of year. It has a total of 17 instrumental tracks that “take you on a journey through the history of Christmas music, starting in the 13th century with March of the Three Kings and ending with more contemporary tunes like Up on the Housetop and The Little Drummer Boy.

Beltaine performs at festivals and events through the Pacific NW, such as the Portland Highland Games, the Portland Rose Festival, Oregon State Fair, etc. John Keys told me in a recent email that the group has some cool gigs coming up during the holidays. So please check their website regularly for a list of upcoming appearances.

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The 2nd Street Challenge in Hood River, OR

A somewhat surreal shot looking up, up, up toward the top of the bluff.  2nd Street Stairs.  Hood River, OR.  Photo: KGilb.

A somewhat surreal shot looking up, up, up toward the top of the bluff. 2nd Street Stairs. Hood River, OR. Photo: KGilb.

A steep flight of stairs is like the ultimate stair-climbing machine, but with benefits you won’t find in a gym or your family room. Benefits like fresh air and sunshine instead of fluorescent lights and the recycled stuff that flows out of a ventilation system. And 9 times out of 10, the view from the top is much more exhilarating than the view through a plate glass window.

One of the most challenging flights of stairs I’ve run into recently has to be the 2nd Street Stairs in downtown Hood River, OR. 413 steps straight up to the top of the bluff. And I mean straight! There’s not a bend or a curve anywhere on this concrete staircase. But there are landings, so to speak . . .

The 2nd Street Stairs intersect four streets before finally reaching Montello Avenue at the top of the bluff. Each street becomes a landing of sorts, a natural place to stop and catch your breath. Unless you happen to be an endurance athlete or, for that matter, any athlete-in-training. And we did see a couple of these athletic types jog past us, legs pumping nonstop as they pushed for the top.

For the more casual hiker/jogger, like us, the streets also serve to break up this monster staircase into five more manageable sections. Each section varies anywhere from 40 to 110 steps. I’m sorry the numbers are not more exact. I tried for an accurate count, but kept getting distracted by the view which is incredible!

So, are you ready for the 2nd Street Challenge? Start at Overlook Memorial Park which is located at the intersection of State and 2nd Streets. Jog up the first 9-10 steps, take a hard right, and then proceed an additional 400+ steps straight up to the top of the bluff. Extra brownie points if you can make it all the way to Montello Avenue without stopping. Good luck!

For exact location, please check this map of downtown Hood River. Metered parking is available nearby.

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