The Devil’s Punch Bowl

Looking down into the Devil's Punch Bowl.  Oregon Coast.  Photo: KGilb.

Looking down into the Devil’s Punch Bowl. Oregon Coast. Photo: KGilb.

The Devil’s Punch Bowl is a bowl-shaped rock formation found along the rugged Oregon Coast just eight miles north of Newport. When the tide rushes in, waves spill through a small hole in its base, racing around the interior walls until they get sucked back out into the ocean. The result is an angry, frothy brew fit for the devil himself.

Don’t believe me? Watch this video and I think you’ll agree.

The Devil’s Punch Bowl actually started life as two small sea caves carved out of soft rock by the relentless pounding of the waves. The caves gradually merged into one and then continued growing until, at last, the ceiling collapsed under its own weight. The collapse and subsequent erosion has created a near perfect oval shape.

Because the land here juts out into the ocean, there’s an incredible view of the surrounding seascape. A smooth, level path follows the contours of the headland, affording photographers ample opportunity to snap that perfect shot. Dozens of seabirds dot the rocks nearby. Whale spouts can be seen in season, even a sea lion or two, and it’s not unusual to see surfers and kayackers riding the waves below.

For those who want to linger, there’s also a nice little park with picnic tables adjacent to the Punch Bowl. Forgot to bring along a picnic basket? No problem. Stop by Mo’s West for some of the best clam chowder on the Oregon Coast.

The Devil’s Punch Bowl is located about 75 miles almost due west of Salem, OR. Easy to find. There’s parking on site, and the view is free!

Directions from Salem: Take OR-22W which turns into OR-18/Salmon River Highway. Continue on until you reach Highway 101/Oregon Coast Highway and turn left. Drive south about 23 miles. Watch for signs and the turnoff to the Devil’s Punch Bowl on the right side of the road.

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Michael Orwick – Master of Light

One of the 40+ paintings by Michael Orwick on display at the recent Pinot and Palette Art Exhibition.

One of the 40+ paintings by Michael Orwick on display at the recent Pinot and Palette Art Exhibition.

Michael Orwick is a well known local artist with deep-seated ties to the Pacific NW. His love of the Oregon landscape is especially evident in his paintings: the lush farms and vineyards of the Willamette Valley, the rugged beauty of the Oregon Coast, the serenity of far off hills and deep forest trails.

There’s a strong sense of place inherent in each piece. As if the artist painted each landscape on site, setting up his easel at a specific time during a specific season in order to capture just the right mood. But it’s his masterful use of light that makes his paintings come alive.

Here are a few of my favorites: A Place of Sanctity, Morning Light (shy Deere), Gossamer Morning, Morning Forest, and Autumn Branches in First Light.

As you can see, his work is reminiscent of the Impressionists–where a single moment in time is caught forever by the artist in a wash of light, color, and movement. But Orwick chooses to delve a little deeper with his art, creating compelling landscapes glowing with light that also tell a story. A story meant to stir one’s emotions and maybe even conjure up some long-forgotten memories. It’s an artistic style he calls “Inspired Expressionism.”

Michael Orwick just wrapped up a one man show entitled “Pinot and Palette” with over 40 of his paintings on display at the ART Elements Gallery in Newberg, OR, as well as three area wineries. Look for him next at the 3rd Annual Plein Aire and More weekend event on the Oregon Coast. His work will be featured at the DragonFire Studio and Gallery which is located at 123 South Hemlock Street in downtown Cannon Beach, OR.

Orwick currently lives and works in his home state of Oregon. Born in Astoria, and raised in the Cascades and the Willamette Valley, he’s a true native son. Want to see more of this artist’s incredible work? Please check out his website at www.michaelorwick.com.

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The Dundee Hills

Rows of grape vines in the Dundee Hills.  Photo: KGilb.

Rows of grape vines in the Dundee Hills. Photo: KGilb.

At the northern end of Oregon’s Willamette Valley lies a little bit of heaven known as the Dundee Hills. Rising over 1000 feet from the valley floor, these lush green slopes offer incredible views of the surrounding mountains–the Cascades to the east, the Chehalem Mountains to the north, and the Coastal Range to the west.

The Dundee Hills also happen to be the heart of Oregon’s $1 billion wine industry. Some 50 wineries and vineyards dot the landscape, with almost 2000 acres of grape vines running in parallel rows up and down the slopes. Wine tasting opportunities abound! Visitors will find excellent samples of pinot gris, pinot blanc, even chardonnay, but make no mistake. First and foremost, this is Pinot Noir country.

David Lett, founder of The Eyrie Vineyards, first came here in 1965. Later known as Papa Pinot, his sole purpose was to find the perfect combination of climate and soil suitable for planting Pinot Noir grapes. Clearly, he found it. In less than fifteen years, his Eyrie Pinot Noir placed among the top three wines in the 1979 Gault-Millau French Wine Olympiads. The rest, as they say, is history. Wines from the area are now sold and savored around the world.

But for heaven’s sake, don’t focus on the wineries to the exclusion of all else! There are four small towns skirting the foot of the Dundee Hills: Dayton, Lafayette, Newberg, and Dundee. Each has its own distinct personality and provides a nice little respite from the “ardors” of sipping wine. Browse through a variety of shops featuring artisan foods and local hand-crafted items. Then stop for lunch or dinner at one of the many bistros or fine dining restaurants in the area. Art galleries, festivals, farmers markets, hiking/biking trails? You’ll find them all here.

The Dundee Hills are located about 30-35 miles southwest of Portland, OR. It’s almost a straight shot down on OR-99W. For a map pinpointing many of the local wineries and vineyards, please check the Dundee Hills Winegrowers Assn website.

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Thomas Kay Woolen Mill II

Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, OR.  Photo: KGilb.

Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, OR. Photo: KGilb.

The building which housed the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill was built over 100 years ago after fire razed the original wooden structure. The foundation walls, built of rock and concrete, are two feet thick and stand nine feet high. The brick walls are seventeen inches thick at the base, thinning to twelve inches thick at the roofline. The floors inside–heavy planks covered with additional flooring–are supported by 48 massive 12 X 16 inch wooden beams, each 60 feet long! How’s that for solid construction?

**Check back soon for more articles on Life in the Pacific NW: artists, authors, restaurants, wineries, festivals and events, historic sites, and the Great Outdoors!

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Thomas Kay Woolen Mill

Water still flows down the old mill race, passing directly underneath the dye house.  Thomas Kay Woolen Mill.  Photo: KGilb.

Water still flows down the old mill race, passing directly underneath the dye house. Thomas Kay Woolen Mill. Photo: KGilb.

The iconic red brick building that housed the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill in Salem, OR, for almost 65 years was built in 1896. Inside, employee timecards hang neatly next to the time clock, bundles of wool still wait to be picked and sorted through, battered metal pails sit within reach of crusty concrete soap vats, and the finishing station is fully stocked with bobbins, spools of thread, and satin edging. All of which makes for a very interesting factory tour. But that’s not the best part . . .

The best part of visiting the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill is that inside the musty, creaky old building are many of the massive machines original to the mill!

What does that mean to a visitor touring the once state-of-the-art factory? Well, since the water is still flowing down the mill race, the machines still operate much as they did before the mill closed down in 1959. Everywhere you go, there are wheels, gears, chain drives, drive shafts, and wide belts in motion. These, in turn, drive the machines–mechanical monsters that clank and clatter noisily right before your eyes.

We started our tour at the machine shop where the millwright would have worked hard to fashion all kinds of parts to keep the mill running. In addition to a blacksmith shop, there’s quite a collection of belt-driven drills, lathes, and planers on display.

Then we walked through a picker house that was as cold as a tomb–even on a bright sunny afternoon. With no heat and very little light, I can’t imagine how anyone could actually work there in the dead of winter. But they did!

From there, we simply followed the wool as it would have passed through a succession of industrial age machinery: wool pickers, carding machines, spoolers, looms, fullers, etc. All of them powered by water.

In fact, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill is one of the few plants in North America where you can still see an entire manufacturing process based solely on direct drive water power. Though the main drive shaft (which runs the entire length of the building) is hidden from view, be sure to check out the crown gears and the turbine on display.

This is a remarkable tour for young and old alike! At the height of production, the Thomas Kay Woolen Mill employed over 100 highly skilled textile workers. Photographs of the employees, both hard at work and at company functions, are prominently displayed throughout the building.

The mill is part of the Willamette Heritage Center complex. It’s located at 1313 Mill Street SE in Salem, OR. They’re open Monday-Saturday from 10am to 5pm, closed on Sundays and holidays. Admission price is quite reasonable and there’s ample parking out front. Plus, there’s a cafe on site that serves soup, sandwiches, salads, ice cream, and Italian sodas.

For more information, a map, and detailed directions, please check please check the Willamette Heritage Center website.

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Beacon Rock II

View of trail from below as we near the top.  Beacon Rock.  Photo: KGilb.

View of trail from below as we near the top. Beacon Rock. Photo: KGilb.

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Beacon Rock

Hiking trail snakes its way up the sheer cliff face.  Beacon Rock.  Photo: KGilb.

Hiking trail snakes its way up the sheer cliff face. Beacon Rock. Photo: KGilb.

Beacon Rock is a towering monolith of basalt that juts up from the north shore of the Columbia River near Skamania, WA. 860 feet from base to summit, it’s a favorite with local rock climbers. But thanks to the foresight and ingenuity of Henry J. Biddle, there’s also a hiking trail that leads straight to the top!

An avid hiker himself, Henry Biddle bought this unique landmark for just $1 in 1915. Later that year, he hired a construction foreman by the name of Charles “Tin Can” Johnson to begin work on a hiking trail that would eventually run 4500 feet from the edge of the old North Bank Highway (now Highway 14) to the summit. The project was completed in April, 1918.

The original trail was 4 feet wide and included 52 switchbacks (narrow hairpin turns), 100 concrete slabs, 22 wooden bridges, and a cable for a handrail. The wooden bridges were eventually replaced with steel and the cable with sturdy, fixed handrails, but the trail itself remains virtually the same as in 1918.

The roughly two hour hike starts with a pleasant stroll through a forest of pine trees that hugs the base. As you near the river, the trail then begins to snake its way up the sheer cliff face. The higher you climb, the shorter the switchbacks. And a couple of times, the trail actually loops back over itself. There are also 2-3 bridges higher up that span narrow chasms in the rock, so you feel as though you’re stepping out onto open air. Exhilarating!

A word of warning: Most of the trail climbs along the exposed south and west faces of Beacon Rock. So it can get a little warm, especially in the dog days of summer. Plan accordingly, and don’t forget to bring along some bottled water.

There’s a pesudo summit very near the top, but don’t cheat yourself. Continue following the trail as it loops around to the east side of the monolith. The hike here is shaded by pine trees, the perfect respite during one of those hot summer days. One last obstacle to clamber up–a few “extra large” steps cut into the rock–and then you’re there. At the top of the world, and the view is spectacular!

Actually, the views all along the way have been pretty spectacular. Hope you brought your camera!

Beacon Rock is located 35 miles due east of Vancouver, WA, on Highway 14. You can’t miss it! The trail is open daily from 8am until dusk. Ample parking on site. And, as Henry Biddle intended way back in 1918, it’s free and open to the public.

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Jimmy Be Free

Where Saints and Angels Tread by Jimmy Free.  Cover Art: JFree.

Where Saints and Angels Tread by Jimmy Free. Cover Art: JFree.

The first time I ran into Jimmy Free, I was wandering through one of the local farmers markets. It was a beautiful sunny day and the market at midday was crowded. And noisy! Dozens of people were milling about, laughing and chatting as they browsed through the booths. There was also the ever-present pop-pop-pop of kettle corn and the sizzle of sausages as we neared the food court.

Well, in the midst of all this happy confusion, I suddenly heard a hauntingly beautiful melody wafting through the air. I couldn’t help but follow it, hoping like crazy that the music wouldn’t end before I found the musician! I threaded my way through the crowd and, all at once, there he was . . . this free-spirited young man standing in sunshine, barefooted and dressed all in white.

His name, as I found out later, was Jimmy Free. Eyes half-closed, he was swaying softly in time to the music that flowed from his violin. (a custom-made 7 stringed instrument known as Peacemaker) The sound was rich, with remarkable resonance and an almost dreamlike quality. I was hooked! And, yes, I did go home that day with a couple of his cd’s tucked away safe in my bag.

For a taste of what I saw and heard that day, please check out this live performance by Jimmy Free. The video was filmed at beautiful Lucia Falls which lies just east of Battle Ground, WA.

Since that day in the farmers market, I’m happy to report that Jimmy now has four cd’s available for sale. His most recent, entitled Where Saints and Angels Tread, was just released in March 2011. All can be ordered directly from the Jimmy Be Free website. And I encourage you to do so!

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Hulda Klager’s Lilac Gardens II

This vintage 19th century farmhouse was Hulda Klager's home for nearly 70 years.  Photo:KGilb.

This vintage 19th century farmhouse was Hulda Klager’s home for nearly 70 years. Photo:KGilb.

The vintage two-story farmhouse sitting in the midst of the Hulda Klager Lilac Gardens was actually built by Hulda’s parents in the late 1800’s. It was later sold to Hulda and her husband, Frank, for just one dollar. She continued to live in the house–sharing her passion for lilacs with family, friends, and neighbors–until her death in 1960. Hulda Klager was 97 years old.

**Special Note: If you’re a “local” with ideas or suggestions for future stories, we’d love to hear from you. Send us an email at [email protected]. But please be sure to include “Wild About the NW” in the subject line. Thanks!

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Hulda Klager’s Lilac Gardens

The lilacs are blooming at the 2011 Hulda Klager Lilac Festival in Woodland, WA.

The lilacs are blooming at the 2011 Hulda Klager Lilac Festival in Woodland, WA.

Lilacs, hollyhocks, and iris always remind me of my childhood home. I love ’em all, but lilacs do come with a bonus. Colorful blooms and a delicious floral scent that perfumes the air. And that’s just from one bush! Imagine my delight as I wandered through 3-1/2 acres of lilac bushes.

Yes, the lilacs are blooming at the 2011 Hulda Klager Lilac Days Festival in Woodland, WA. Some are the pale lavender color I remember from my childhood, but others are pink, white, blue lavender, and deep dark purple. 150 varieties in all–many hybridized by the “Lilac Lady” herself, Hulda Klager.

This year’s festival continues through May 14th, a concession to the cooler temps and rainy weather we’ve had the past couple of months. Visitors can wander freely around the grounds and then return home with their own lilacs, potted plants offered for sale by the Hulda Klager Lilac Society. On the day we visited, bouquets of freshly cut lilacs were also available.

A narrow brick “plaza’ with benches has been laid in the center of Hulda’s garden, a perfect spot to linger for awhile. There’s also a memory garden tucked away in the back corner of the lot with a gravel path that meanders through the flower beds.

Though lilacs are definitely the main attraction here, Hulda Klager’s old homestead also boasts a unique collection of other flowers, shrubs, and exotic trees. So take time to enjoy it all! Like the 19th century Victorian-era garden known as the “flatiron garden” that’s located directly in front of the house.

The old carriage house is now home to a gift shop which carries an abundance of lilac-themed souvenirs and craft items from local artists. For history buffs, there’s a wood shed, windmill, and water tower on site that have been completely restored. And those who visit before the close of Mother’s Day, May 8th, can also tour the vintage farmhouse.

Hulda Klager’s Lilac Gardens are located at 115 South Pekin Road in Woodland, WA. This year’s Lilac Days Festival runs through May 14th. The grounds and gift shop are open daily from 10am to 4pm. Admission is just $2 per person. Special Note: The farmhouse is only open to visitors through May 8th, so plan accordingly.

Ample parking on site. For a map and detailed directions, please check the Lilac Gardens website.

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