Art in the Pearl

2010 Art in the Pearl arts festival.  Portland, OR.  Photo: KGilb.

2010 Art in the Pearl arts festival. Portland, OR. Photo: KGilb.

A stream of visitors poured into the North Park Blocks of Portland’s Pearl District last weekend to attend the 14th Annual “Art in the Pearl” Arts Festival. Up to 75,000 people were expected to show up this year. In spite of the cooler temps and the threat of rain, I think the estimates were accurate. Some may have been wearing jackets or sipping cups of hot tea/ coffee, but the artists still attracted quite a crowd!

The first “Art in the Pearl” we attended was a lot smaller and featured mostly local artists, but that was a few years ago. It has since become one of the nation’s premier arts festivals. This year, artists came from all over the country to exhibit their work–some from as far away as Alexandria VA and Atlanta GA. Over 125 artists in all, displaying everything from paintings, drawings, and sculptures to jewelry, pottery, and blown glass.

Some of our favorites included: Oil paintings by Diane Russell and Jennifer Phillips. Photography by Randy Dana. Pottery/Ceramics by Ken Standhardt, Charles Gluskoter, and Alan Higinbotham. Pastel Drawings by Jeff White, Amanda Houston, and Marla Baggetta. Blown glass by John Fields.

A true banquet for the eyes, but the best thing about “Art in the Pearl”? It’s not just a visual experience. This arts festival is interactive. No matter where we went, we heard the murmur and chatter of voices.

In the Education Pavilion, both adults and children were encouraged to try their own arts/crafts projects under the guidance of experienced artists and art instructors. In the Demonstraton Booths, professional artists talked freely about the “creative process” as they worked. And in each tent, the artist was available to answer questions about technique and subject matter.

“Art in the Pearl” is one of the few artist-run festivals in the country. Perhaps that’s what has made it so successful. I do know their efforts are much appreciated by the public. See you all next year!

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Yacolt Falls

Yacolt Falls on Big Tree Creek.  Photo:  KGilb.

Yacolt Falls on Big Tree Creek. Photo: KGilb.

Go to enough live concerts and you soon realize that although the “headliner” is typically the one who brings in the crowds, sometimes it’s the lesser known band that scores the most points with fans because of their performance. So it is with Yacolt Falls, the northern most waterfall in Moulton Falls Regional Park.

The headliner, of course, is Moulton Falls. Water from the East Fork of the Lewis River is channelled into a narrow trough that drops maybe 10 feet before smoothing out again. In spring and early summer, the jagged rocks make for some pretty spectacular white water rapids, but a waterfall?

Fortunately, Yacolt Falls is less than a half mile away. Located on Big Tree Creek, the water here spills over a broad rock ledge and tumbles nearly 30 feet into a splash pool. Now, that’s what I call a waterfall. As an added feature, the right side of the falls is a two-tiered drop. Much more satisfying, even in the dog days of August when the water levels are low.

The trail to Yacolt Falls winds through a nice bit of forest, but it is narrower and more rugged than trails found in other parts of Moulton Falls Regional Park. And when you reach the falls, there is a fairly steep set of rock steps down to the metal footbridge that spans Big Tree Creek. Not good for cyclists or baby strollers, but for everyone else, the view is worth it!

Directions to Yacolt Falls: From Vancouver, WA, drive straight north on Highway 503 about 12.5 miles. Turn right onto NE Rock Creek Road and continue east for about 8.5 miles. Please note that NE Rock Creek Road turns into NE 152nd Avenue which then turns into NE Lucia Falls Road. Bypass the first Moulton Falls parking lot and continue on for another 1/10 of a mile. The upper parking lot (overflow parking) is on the right.

From the upper parking lot, take the trail north across NE Lucia Falls Road. Walk about a quarter mile to the falls.

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Gallon House Bridge

Gallon House Bridge just outside of Silverton, OR.  Note the wooden decking.  Photo: KGilb.

Gallon House Bridge just outside of Silverton, OR. Note the wooden decking. Photo: KGilb.

Whenever someone mentions covered bridges, I usually think of The Bridges of Madison County by Robert James Waller or maybe rural New England. Imagine my surprise when I discovered that Oregon not only has the largest collection of covered bridges in the West, but also one of the largest in the nation.

The Gallon House Bridge is located 1.5 miles northeast of Silverton, OR. Built in 1916, it’s a one-lane, 84 foot Howe truss bridge with a wooden plank deck that spans Abiqua Creek. The wooden deck makes a nice rumbling sound as you drive across, a novelty for city dwellers who are used to steel and asphalt.

According to the locals, the Gallon House Bridge has a somewhat checkered past. Shortly after it was built, the bridge served as a local landmark for bootleggers who sold whiskey by the gallon out of a nearby farmhouse. Some even say that the bridge itself was used as a “drop” for bootleg whiskey.  Although Prohibition was repealed in 1933, the name stuck and it has been known as the “Gallon House” bridge ever since.

Thanks to preservation efforts, Oregon State has 50 covered bridges still standing. For background and touring info, please check out the Covered Bridge Society of Oregon website.

Directions to the Gallon House Bridge: From Salem, drive north on Highway 213 about 14 miles to Silverton, OR. At Silverton, drive north on Highway 214 to Hobart Road. Turn west on Hobart to Gallon House Road, then north on Gallon House Road until you reach the bridge. Distance from Silverton is just 1.5 miles.

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America’s Favorite Pastime

A fierce vintage base ball match between arch rivals, the Vancouver Occidentals and the 1st Oregon Volunteers.  Photo: KGilb.

A fierce vintage base ball match between arch rivals, the Vancouver Occidentals and the 1st Oregon Volunteers. Photo: KGilb.

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America’s Favorite Pastime II

Young ladies in period costume gathered to cheer for their favorite team.  Photo: KGilb.

Young ladies in period costume gathered to cheer for their favorite team. Photo: KGilb.

“Striker to the line!” With that one opening phrase, we were instantly transported back to a grassy playing field in the year 1867. A vintage base ball match between arch rivals, the Vancouver Occidentals and the 1st Oregon Volunteers. For the uninitiated, it means “batter up!”

Mind you, this is not Seattle Mariners baseball. Baseball in the mid-1800’s was more of a gentleman’s game. There was absolutely no swearing, spitting, tobacco chewing, or wagering allowed. And there was no “chaffing” the umpire–disparaging or arguing with his decisions. In fact, umpires had the authority to fine players and cranks (fans) alike up to 25 cents for “ungentlemanly” or “unladylike” behavior during the game.

In vintage baseball, the bats are made of wood, not lightweight aluminum. The ball is hurled underhanded, and fans looking to see fast balls, curve balls, or spit balls will likely come away disappointed. Why? Because it’s the responsibility of the hurler (pitcher) to put the ball as near as possible to where the striker can hit it! No sneaky pitches! Likewise, there is no sliding, leading off, or stealing bases. This is a gentleman’s game, remember?

A player crossing home plate safely must proceed directly to the tallykeeper’s table, put one hand on the table, raise his other hand, and ask the tallykeeper to please tally his ace (run) for his team. He is then instructed to ring the tally bell. Only then will his run count!

Something else we noticed? Unlike today’s athletes, vintage players wear no gloves or other protective gear. And runners aren’t just out, they’re “dead.”

Now, I’m not a huge fan of baseball, but I must admit that I really enjoyed this game. The players, of course, were all in costume, but so were many of the fans. We saw gentlemen dressed in 3-piece suits with colorful waistcoats and top hats strolling about, and women in long dresses with hoop skirts carrying parasols. Even the members of the Whiskey Flats Brass Band were all wearing vintage “Music Man” uniforms.

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Director Park in Downtown Portland

Director Park in downtown Portland.  Photo:  KGilb.

Director Park in downtown Portland. Photo: KGilb.

Simon & Helen Director Park is not one of your cozy arbors with lush green grass and a scattering of shade trees. This park is sleek and modern with sharp, clean lines. An urban space in the heart of downtown Portland that still manages to be inviting.

The newest addition to the South Park Blocks, this half acre site was a lowly parking lot for many years before the land was donated to the city by real estate developer Tom Moyer. Transformed by a design team headed by internationally acclaimed Laurie Olin, it’s now a 44,000 square foot plaza built of honey-colored granite.

Director Park features a fountain dedicated to “all who educate & inspire” and a huge glass canopy for protected outdoor eating. It’s the perfect spot to stop and rest during a shopping trip downtown. At least, it is during the summer! (I haven’t yet had a chance to try it out during the winter rainy season) The antics of the kids playing in the water are sure to bring a smile to your face. And did I mention that it also has a cafe’ on site?

The Violetta (the name of one of my favorite characters in Italian opera) is “Portland’s fastest slow food.” This full service cafe’ serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner seven days a week. Their menu includes a variety of items “made-from-scratch” with only fresh ingredients, grown locally. Walk-up espresso and coffee service is available from 6am to 9pm daily.

Simon & Helen Director Park is named for two immigrants who came to the Portland area from Europe during the early 1900’s. The Plaza is bounded by SW Park and Ninth Avenues, and by SW Yamhill and Taylor Streets. Check its precise location here on this map of downtown Portland.

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The Jetty at Tidewater Cove

Trail's End.  The Jetty at Tidewater Cover.  Photo Credit:  KGilb.

Trail's End. The Jetty at Tidewater Cover. Photo Credit: KGilb.

“Fresh air and sunshine is good for the soul.” I’m not sure who first told me that, but it certainly seems true. Not that I’m an avid mountain climber, but I do always feel better after a walk. Fortunately, the Pacific NW has a multitude of hiking, biking, and walking trails scattered throughout the region.

One of my favorite walks is along Vancouver’s Waterfront Renaissance Trail. This 14-foot-wide, shared-use concrete trail follows the north bank of the Columbia River east from the downtown area near I-5 to Wintler Park. The trail is about 5 miles long. For those of us who are not marathon or cross-country walkers, it’s naturally broken up into shorter segments that run anywhere from 1-2 miles each.

One such segment starts in Marine Park and heads east. The first 1/4 mile or so takes you through a lush green forested area with lots of cottonwood trees and thick stands of blackberry bushes. Then the trail breaks out into the open and swings south to follow the shoreline another 3/4 of a mile to the jetty at Tidewater Cover.

Total walking distance is just over 2 miles round trip. The views along the river are terrific, especially from the end of the jetty! On a clear day, you can get some exceptional shots of Mt Hood. And there are benches set at regular intervals along the way for those who want to stop and rest. Or maybe just do some people-watching.

Marine Park is located at SE Marine Park Way and SE Columbia Way in Vancouver, WA. Directions: From I-5, take state Highway 14 to Exit 1, bearing right. Turn left at the Columbia Shores intersection onto SE Columbia Way and continue east about 3 miles. Marine Park will be on your right. Ample parking available.

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Salt in our Blood

Salt in our Blood:  Memoir of a Fisherman's Wife.

Salt in our Blood: Memoir of a Fisherman's Wife.

It’s been almost nine years since Michele Longo Eder received news that the Nesika, a 40 foot F/V fishing boat owned by her husband Bob, had capsized. The boat overturned just outside the Yaquina Bay bar near Newport, OR, as crewmen were setting their crab pots on the ocean floor. The date was December 11, 2001, the first day of crabbing season.

Owner/Operator Bob Eder was not on the boat during that trip, so could provide no testimony as to what might have happened. A subsequent investigation revealed that the Nesika was properly loaded and in excellent mechanical condition. But four crewmen lost their lives that day, including their eldest son who was home on break from the University of Oregon. Benjamin Eder was only 21.

Coast Guard crews searched for the missing fishermen for two days without success. Their bodies were never recovered.

Michele Longo Eder has been a commercial fisherman’s wife for over 20 years. While pursuing her own career as a lawyer, she was also an active partner in the family business. She kept the books, ran for parts, cooked meals for the crew, dealt with buyers, and even “stood watch at the processing plant as each fish came off the boat.”

In December, 2000, she started a journal detailing the joys, frustrations, day-to-day uncertainties, and just plain hard work faced by a fisherman and his family. (see Eder family photos) One year later, the tone of her journal entries changed forever when she and her husband lost their eldest son to the sea.

Want to know what commercial fishing is really all about, especially in the treacherous waters off the Pacific NW coast? Pick up a copy of Salt in our Blood. It’s an up close and personal look at the lives of those who “go down to the sea in ships.”

Special Note: For news, reviews, and profiles of other Pacific NW authors, please check out my column on the Portland Examiner.

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North Head Lighthouse

North Head Lighthouse at dusk.

North Head Lighthouse at dusk.

North Head Lighthouse at dusk is a lonely place. (especially with a cloud bank moving in off the ocean) Hard to believe that on the day we stopped by, most of the inland Pacific NW was sweltering with 90+ degree heat. Not here! Good thing we thought to bring along our jackets.

North Head is one of two lighthouses found in Cape Disappointment State Park. Both were built to guide mariners safely away from the rocky cliffs of the headlands and into the mouth of the Columbia River.

The 65-foot lighthouse, built in 1898, sits on a solid basalt cliff more than 190 feet above sea level. Located on a small peninsula just north of the Columbia, it’s one of the windiest spots in North America. How windy? How about sustained gusts of up to 120 mph?
According to legend, one poor lighthouse keeper’s wife was driven insane by the unrelenting howling of the wind and flung herself off a cliff into nearby Beard’s Hollow.

Fortunately, the winds were calm when we visited. The ocean views, even on a cloudy day, were spectacular! And the short trail running from the parking lot to the lighthouse (just 3/10 of a mile) led us through a lush rainforest of sword ferns and Sitka spruce.

The lighhouse grounds are open to the public year-round, free of charge, from dawn to dusk. Tours of the lighthouse are available for a modest fee. Just 69 steps up a winding staircase to the top! But tour hours change seasonally, so you might want to call 360-642-3078 for an updated schedule.

Special Note: For those of you who would like to spend a night or two in a real lighthouse keeper’s house, there are actually two on site. For more details, check out the accommodations at either Residence 1 or Residence 2.

Directions from Astoria: Take Highway 101 north from Astoria, OR, across the Columbia River and on to Ilwaco, WA. Continue north through Ilwaco and then just follow the signs to the North Head Lighthouse turnoff.

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C’mon In! The Water’s Fine!

The Rotary Fountain in Riverfront Park.  Spokane, WA.

The Rotary Fountain in Riverfront Park. Spokane, WA.

When temps spike up into the 90’s, folks just naturally head for the water. And if there’s no ocean, river, or swimming pool nearby, a fountain or other water feature works just fine.

Spokane’s “interactive” Rotary Fountain is located at the south entrance to Riverfront Park. (so-named not because it rotates, but because it was partially funded by the Downtown Spokane Rotary Club) Kids of all ages love it! No matter which way they turn, they’re sure to get wet.

The five stainless steel columns, which stand 24 feet tall, support a 30 foot diameter ring that has 40 overhead jets. These jets spray toward the middle of the fountain, creating both a dome of water overhead and a waterfall that cascades down into the center of the fountain. Water also shoots out from the columns themseves, from a half dozen basalt boulders scattered around the perimeter, and from dozens of mist jets. 155 jets in all, pumping out about 3500 gallons of water per minute. That’s a lot of water!

So if you’re planning a trip to Spokane this summer, be sure to check out the Riverfront Park Rotary Fountain. A fun way to cool off, even if you’re fully clothed!

The Rotary Fountain is located in downtown Spokane at the intersection of Howard Street and Spokane Falls Boulevard. Ample parking nearby. For directions to Riverfront Park, please check their website.

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