NW Snapshots: Mule Deer Grazing

Mule deer grazing in Oregon's Coastal Range. Photo: KGilb.

Mule deer grazing in Oregon’s Coastal Range. Photo: KGilb.

I’m always amazed at the abundance of wildlife here in the Pacific NW.  We saw this little darlin’ late one afternoon as we were getting ready to leave Oregon’s coastal range and head inland.  He just stepped out from the trees at the edge of a little meadow and started grazing.  I’m no expert, but he does has the “forked” antlers and black-tipped tail that matches the description of a mule deer.  Though if anyone out there knows for sure, I welcome your comments.

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Shipwreck at Boiler Bay

Boiler Bay on the Oregon Coast. Photo: KGilb.

Boiler Bay on the Oregon Coast. Photo: KGilb.

Boiler Bay on the Oregon Coast is aptly named, though not for the reason you might think.  Waves roll in off the ocean, crash onto the basalt rocks lining the shore, and then ricochet around the little cove before being sucked back out again.  The result?  A “boiling” mass of turbulent white water . . . but that’s not why it’s called Boiler Bay.

On May 18, 1910, a 175-foot schooner—the J. Marhoffer—was making its way up the coast from San Francisco to Portland, OR.  Three miles offshore, she was doing about 9 knots when the engine room caught fire.  The flames spread quickly, defeating all efforts to put them out.  The captain finally told all hands to “Abandon ship!”  While crew members and the captain’s wife scrambled into the life boats, he turned the doomed ship toward shore.

“. . . she came charging in belching flames, sparks, and smoke like a volcano.  She piled onto the rocks with a helluva crunching crash, heeled way over to starboard, then lay there burning like a blast furnace,” reported Depoe Bay resident Tony Wisniewski who was a boy at the time.  “All of a sudden her tanks exploded and shot timbers, chunks of steel, and flame clear up into the trees behind me, a quarter of a mile away.”  (excerpt from the 1982 memoir Heave To! You’ll Drown Yourselves! by author Stan Allyn)

A hundred years later, at very low tide, visitors can still see part of the ill-fated J. Marhoffer resting on the bottom of the bay—a rusty ship’s boiler.  Hence its name, Boiler Bay.

For a more detailed account of the shipwreck, please check the Offbeat Oregon website.

Today, in addition to wave watching, Boiler Bay is an excellent site for spotting whales as they migrate up and down the coast.  Bird lovers can also catch sight of a variety of seabirds like jaegers, grebes, pelicans, loons, and oystercatchers.  And for those who prefer starfish, anemones, and sea urchins, a short (rough) trail leads down from the park to the tidal pools.

Boiler Bay State Park is located on Highway 101 just one mile north of Depoe Bay.  Breathtaking views of the ocean with plenty of picnic tables so you can linger as long as you want.  Restrooms on site.

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Ghost Town Poetry Celebrates Anniversary

Anthology of poems presented at past Ghost Town Poetry's open mic programs.  Cover: Printed Matter Vancouver.

Anthology of poems presented at past Ghost Town Poetry’s open mic programs. Cover: Printed Matter Vancouver.

Ghost Town Poetry celebrated a special anniversary recently at Cover to Cover Books in Vancouver WA. Good thing I went a little early. When I arrived, the bookstore was already packed to the rafters with well-wishers. The seating area was 3/4 full. The barista machine was hissing and grinding away happily, and the refreshment table was mobbed by appreciative fans. There was even live entertainment with music by harpist Jennifer Pratt-Walter. What was the happy occasion?

Ghost Town and Cover to Cover Books were commemorating a very successful collaboration. For five years, they have co-hosted a monthly open mic program that features readings by renowned poets from across the country. In doing so, they’ve also provided a valuable forum for local poets to showcase their talent. It’s a program that is obviously much appreciated by the community. The turnout was phenomenal.

The poems that night ran the gamut from anger and outrage to light-hearted humor and pensive introspection. One was accompanied by the strumming of an acoustic guitar and another by the flourish of a Japanese fan. Still others were delivered with an artistic flair reminiscent of a stage performance. All were greeted with an enthusiastic round of applause.

Halfway through the poetry readings, a folk/rock band (sans drummer) took the stage and soon had everyone tapping their feet. The lively performance by Lincoln’s Beard was one of the highlights of the evening.

Poet, artist, editor, and well known personality Christopher Luna founded the poetry open mic program way back in 2004. He continues as emcee for the event, with help from the equally talented Toni Partington. (VoiceCatcher 6 co-editor and co-founder of Printed Matter Vancouver)

Though the party’s over, the excitement continues. Ghost Town Poetry meets the second Thursday of every month at Cover to Cover Books. Meetings start promptly at 7 pm. Can’t make it? A good sampling of poems presented at open mic programs in the past–as well as some new work–can be found in Ghost Town Poetry: Cover to Cover Books 2004-2010. (see cover above) Order your copy today!

Special Note: For some candid shots of the celebration, please check the Printed Matter Vancouver website. Thanks for the heads-up, Chris!

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A Whisper of War II

Gun mount that housed one of two 10" guns at Battery Russell.  Photo: KGilb.

Gun mount that housed one of two 10″ guns at Battery Russell. Photo: KGilb.

Battery Russell is the military’s equivalent of a haunted house. Sounds bounce off the concrete walls, echoing through rooms shrouded with shadow. Some, like the ammo bunkers, are pitch black and strangely mesmerizing. You want so much to step into the darkness, but something holds you back. Ghosts, perhaps, or a sixth sense warning you of hidden dangers.

We spent almost an hour clambering up and down the stairs, peering into open pits, and walking the “battlements.” We wandered through deserted rooms that once held a full complement of soldiers. We tried to imagine the movement of shells as they were lifted by way of chains and hoists to the 10″ guns above. And, more than once, we teetered on the edge of a sharp drop-off just to get a better look. Fun stuff, for kids of all ages!

For a close-up view of the interior, please check out this video by puisworld.

As mentioned, Battery David Russell lies inside the boundaries of Fort Stevens State Park, less than 5 miles NE of Warrenton, OR. For a map and detailed directions, please check out the Visit Fort Stevens website.

Special Note: Battery Russell is dug into a hilltop overlooking the Pacific Ocean. From the parking lot at the base of the hill, visitors must either climb a steep staircase–well over 50 steps, bottom to top–or climb a gravel road with a fairly steep incline. So, be prepared. 

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A Whisper of War

Battery David Russell.  Fort Stevens State Park.  Photo: KGilb.

Battery David Russell. Fort Stevens State Park. Photo: KGilb.

On the night of June 21, 1942—just 6½ months after the bombing of Pearl Harbor and the loss of America’s Pacific Fleet—a Japanese submarine surfaced off the Oregon Coast.  Its gun crew scrambled to get their deck cannon ready.  The sub’s commander gave the order to “open fire” and, for the first and only time in its history, the State of Oregon came under attack.  The target?  Fort Steven’s Battery Russell.

A total of 17 shells rained down upon the gun battery and surrounding area.  American gun crews raced to their duty stations, eager to engage, but the order to return fire never came.  The submarine was considered too far out of range for the battery’s 10” guns.  Plus, it was later reported that the fort’s commander simply didn’t want to reveal the size, strength, and exact location of this strategic defense installation to what he thought was an enemy recon vessel.  A recon vessel that might return one day with a Japanese invasion force in its wake.

So the American gunners were forced to wait out the barrage, cursing and fuming, until the Japanese sub finally gave up firing and slid back beneath the waves.  Fortunately, for the Americans, there were no casualties and very little damage. Just a few bomb craters, a baseball backstop that was left smoldering after the attack, and some badly jangled nerves.

For a more detailed account, please check out this article on the Offbeat Oregon History website.

Almost 70 years have passed since that night long ago.  The battery was decommissioned toward the end of the war and the troops moved on.  But the buildings still stand, silent and empty, crumbling a bit around the edges and scarred by rust.

Battery David Russell is just one of the many fascinating landmarks found inside Fort Stevens State Park.  The park is located less than five miles NE of Warrenton, OR.  For a map and detailed directions, please check out the Visit Fort Stevens website.

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Chihuly’s Crystal Towers

The Crystal Towers by famed artist Dale Chihuly.  Located on the Bridge of Glass in Tacoma, WA.  Photo: KGilb.

The Crystal Towers by famed artist Dale Chihuly. Located on the Bridge of Glass in Tacoma, WA. Photo: KGilb.

We were cruising along I-705 through downtown Tacoma WA, heading toward Ruston Way, when two colossal sculptures came into view. At first glance, they looked like a pair of blue sugar swizzle sticks standing on end. We quickly pulled off the freeway at the next exit and wound our way back around to figure out what the heck they were.

As it turns out, the Crystal Towers by renowned artist Dale Chihuly are part of an incredible local landmark known as the Bridge of Glass.  The 500-foot-long pedestrian bridge crosses over I-705 and Dock Street, linking Tacoma’s historic downtown district to the Thea Foss waterfront.

The Crystal Towers rise 40 feet above the bridge deck  Each sculpture is made of 63 large crystals that, up close, look amazingly like blocks of glacial ice.  Pretty in the sunshine, but at night, the “ice” is illuminated from below and the towers become beacons of light in the midst of the city.  Check out this striking late night photo found on the World 66 website.

Stopping to investigate the towers came with an added bonus.  Chihuly’s Venetian Wall and Sea Foam Pavilion are also located on the Bridge of Glass.  What did we find as we wandered through both exhibits?  Scores of rainbow-hued glass sculptures of every size, shape, and color imaginable.  A feast for the eyes!

For just a taste of what we saw, please watch this short slideshow provided by the Museum of Glass.

Chihuly’s Crystal Towers are located in downtown Tacoma, WA.  From I-5, take Exit 133 to I-705.  Merge right and take the Schuster Parkway Exit.  Follow signs to Schuster Parkway (remain in the left lane).  Turn right at the first light onto South 4th Street, which becomes Dock Street.  Access to the pedestrian bridge can be found just outside the Museum of Glass.

We found metered parking all along Dock Street.  But there’s also a parking garage operated by the City of Tacoma that’s located underneath the museum.  Entrance to the garage is on the north side of the building next to the loading dock.

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Wild Arts Festival

2011 Wild Arts Festival.  Portland, OR.  Photo:  Portland Audubon Society.

2011 Wild Arts Festival. Portland, OR. Photo: Portland Audubon Society.

We arrived at Portland’s Montgomery Park fairly early on Sunday morning, but the parking lot was already filling up fast.  Inside the Atrium was a dizzying array of artists, authors, craftsmen, and a half dozen birds of prey.  The occasion? Portland Audubon Society’s Wild Arts Festival–the Pacific NW’s premiere exhibition of nature-related art and books.

Coffee and tea in hand, we zipped up to the top floor and worked our way down.  So much talent!  Seventy artists working in a variety of media to celebrate the beauty of nature:  oil paintings, pastels, watercolors, pottery, metal sculptures, wood carvings, ceramic tiles, and photography.

Here are a few of our favorites:  Susan Bourdet, Dean Crouser, Amanda Houston, Duncan Neilson, Dave and Boni Deal, Jane Aukshunas, and the willow art of Kathleen Otley.

The Portland Audubon Society pulled out all the stops for this year’s annual fundraising event.  New in 2011, the festival sponsored a special “6 X 6 Wild Art Project.”  175 artists submitted bird-themed works of art on 6″ X 6″ canvases, each of which sold for $40.  There were also 100 items waiting for bids in the silent auction.  Plus, thirty local authors were on hand to sign autographs and talk about their books.

But the stars of the festival were clearly the half dozen raptors who appeared with their human handlers.  The kestrels and the peregrine falcon were beautiful, but the largest crowds seemed drawn to the once infamous spotted owl, the great-horned owl, and the turkey vulture.  Especially the vulture!  The ugliest face I have ever seen, but when he stretched out his wings, even this ugly duckling became a work of art.

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The Bad Boys of Astoria

Sea Lions take over the docks at Pier 36 in Astoria, OR.  Photo: KGilb.

Sea Lions take over the docks at Pier 36 in Astoria, OR. Photo: KGilb.

We ran into these Bad Boys along the waterfront (Pier 36) in Astoria OR.  They weren’t hard to find.  We heard them barking and honking from well over a quarter of a mile away!  All we had to do was follow the sound.

Don’t believe me?  Check out this video by hermenutic and I’m sure you’ll agree they make quite a racket.

Though sea lions can be found up and down the Pacific NW coast, you don’t always score an opportunity like this to get up-close-and-personal with the loveable brutes.  So this was an unexpected treat.

These particular Bad Boys had taken over the docks at the East Mooring Basin Marina which is located at the intersection of 36th Street and Leif Erickson Drive.  Ample parking available for anyone who, like us, might be lured to the area by the “call of the wild”.

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Mill Ends – World’s Smallest Park

Mill Ends - the smallest park in the world.  Portland, OR  Photo: KGilb.

Mill Ends – the smallest park in the world. Portland, OR Photo: KGilb.

Welcome to Mill Ends, officially designated as the world’s smallest park by none other than the Guinness Book of World Records.  How small?  Less than two feet wide.  Yep, you heard right!  The circular park is only about 20 inches in diameter, give or take an inch or two.

This unique park was created in 1948 by Dick Fagan, a reporter with the Oregon Journal.  At the time, Fagan’s 2nd story office looked out over Front Street. (now SW Naito Parkway).  In the middle of the median was a hole where the city had planned to put a lamp post, but the lamp post never materialized.  Instead, the hole became infested with weeds.  What’s a local journalist to do?  Well this one finally went down, ripped out the weeds, planted some flowers, and claimed the little bit of real estate as his very own personal park.

He also began writing about it, in what would become a very popular column called Mill Ends.

From 1949 until his death in 1969, Dick Fagan detailed the many activities and festive events held at his park.  Many of the columns told stories about a group of leprechauns who had set up camp there, “the only leprechaun colony west of Ireland”.  Soon all of Portland was in on the joke.  A mini ferris wheel was installed onsite; someone else put in a swimming pool for butterflies, complete with a diving board.  Still others added trees, statues, clowns, little cars, and even an occasional super hero to the landscape.

Interest in the park has remained constant over the years.  Even today, Mill Ends continues to be used by the citizens of Portland as a site for concerts, picnics, and protest demonstrations.

Mill Ends was formally declared a Portland City Park on St. Patrick’s Day, 1976.  (seven years after Fagan’s death)  A fitting tribute for this local Irish journalist who turned a little bit of blarney into a city landmark.

Mill Ends Park is located at 899 SW Naito Parkway in downtown  Portland, OR.  (the intersection of SW Naito Parkway and Taylor Street)  The park is smack dab in the middle of the street, protected from traffic by two poles.  A nearby crosswalk allows easy access.

**Thanks and a tip of the hat to Kathy P. who gave me the idea for this story.  Thanks, Kathy!

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To Those Who Serve

Inland NW Vietnam Veterans Memorial.  Spokane, WA  Photo: KGilb.

Inland NW Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Spokane, WA Photo: KGilb.

Perched at the top of a grassy hillock, surrounded by evergreen trees, is a bronze statue of a young American soldier. He sits on a rock, helmet cradled on his thigh, and gazes off into the distance. In his hand is a letter from home.

The inscription at the base of the statue reads simply: “To those who served and those who gave their lives and are now in the hands of God.”

The Inland Northwest Vietnam Veterans Memorial was dedicated on November 10, 1985. (for a close-up shot, please check out this photo by Carol Groenen) The statue can be found overlooking the Russian Meadow in Spokane’s Riverfront Park. But wherever you may find yourself this Veteran’s Day, please take a moment to remember the sacrifices made by all of our men and women in uniform.

**Special Note: The poignant image of the young American soldier captured in Spokane’s Vietnam Veterans Memorial was created by Deborah Copenhaver-Fellows. Deborah grew up on a ranch in northern Idaho and lived for a time in Spokane WA before moving to Sonoita AZ.

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